The Haunted Forest

Here are just a few pics from our recent cub scout camping trip.

Our Tent

Jonathan on one of the trail bridges

Another view of the long bridge

The swaying suspension bridge

Another view of the swaying bridge

I'm glad I didn't sit in those!

The campfire at the end of the trail

Creating 3D Pictures Tutorial

This post is intended as a basic tutorial in the art and science of creating anaglyphic 3D images. It is much easier than you might think, and aside from a pair of red/cyan glasses (which you can get for free) you probably have everything you need to start creating your own 3D pictures today.

(Heads up: parts of this blog entry are in 3D so you might want to have your 3D glasses handy.)

Soon you will be making cool 3D pictures just like the ones in this slideshow. Check out my HeroClix Star Trek Away team in 3D. Also featuring my Diamond Select Enterprise.  


Most people think that you need an expensive 3D camera like one of these to create 3D images.

http://3d-camera-review.toptenreviews.com/

And some folks create dual camera rigs out of a pair of regular digital cameras, which is fine if you can afford to buy two cameras and have the skill and patience to put together the mounting hardware.

How To Build A Dual Camera 3D Rig

 
There are even ways to craft a single-camera 3D rig which uses mirrors to split the image into left and right images.

Source: instructables.com via Mike on Pinterest

Once again, there is quite a bit of construction involved as well as the cost of materials. But you don't need to do any of those things. You can make 3D pictures today with the digital camera you have now, even if it is the camera on your cell phone.

This method is easy and gives great results as long as your subject is still. That's the only drawback to this method. Since you have to take two shot from different perspectives it isn't great for capturing action, but for that vase of roses or the butterfly perched on the window sill this method is perfect.

We'll start with the basics of taking the shots. The average distance between the pupils of the human eye is 2.48 inches, which gives us our stereo vision. This is what we want to replicate. However, if you don't know how to estimate 2 1/2  inches as you step to the side just take half a baby step and that will work fine.*

First we are going to take the left eye shot. your subject should be just a little off-center to the right in the frame. Snap the picture and step a tiny bit to the right. Do not angle the camera to train it on your subject as you take your step. Keep it parallel to the first shot. Your subject should now be just a little off-center to the left. Now snap your right eye shot. Always take the left shot first then the right so you won't get them mixed up. That's very important.

The correct method to take 3D photos

 

The incorrect method

Once you have taken your pairs of photographs it is time to turn them into 3D pictures. For that you will need 3D conversion software. You can go through the process of doing the color separation and blending of the images in your favorite editor like Adobe Photoshop but it is a complicated process. You'll probably want a piece of software that automates much of it for you. My favorite program is Wooly Anaglyph Maker. It is very easy to use and best of all, it's free! 

You can download it here:

Wooly Anaglyph Maker

You'll also need some anaglyphic 3D glasses if you don't already have a pair. You can purchase them online. Here is a link to the listing on Amazon:

3D Glasses on Amazon

Or you can get a free pair of paper 3D glasses from American Paper Optics by sending a self-addressed, stamped envelope to this address:

 American Paper Optics, LLC
2995 Appling Road, Suite 106
Bartlett, TN 38133
USA
Attn: Free 3D Glasses

Click here for more detailed instructions.

Rainbow Symphony also offers a pair of paper 3D glasses by sending a self-addressed, stamped envelope to this address:

  Rainbow Symphony, Inc.

6860 Canby Ave. Suite 120 

Reseda · CA · 91335

Click here for more detailed instructions and to see the other types of 3D glasses they will send you for free. 

Okay, now that you have downloaded or copied your pictures onto your hard drive, your 3D glasses are perched on your head, and Wooly Anaglyph Maker is installed on your computer, let's learn how to use it. There is really nothing to it.

  

When you open Wooly Anaglyph Maker this is the first screen you will see. The big white area is where you will see your 3D picture come to life. At the top of the screen is a row of buttons which we will discuss in a bit. What concerns us now are the two boxes on the right.

You will begin by clicking the top box to load your left image. A pop-up window appears that allows you to browse your computer for the picture you want. Clicking the box beneath it allows you to browse for your right image.

When the left image appears and it is already filtered red. Sort of reminds you of the terminator doesn't it?

When the right image loads it is filtered cyan. Now the fun begins.

At this point it will be easier to align the two images if you are not looking through your 3D glasses, but you will want to peek through them often as you do this to make sure you are getting the effect you want.

The process is simple. You just drag the image around until you get it aligned on whatever you want the focal point to be. Everything else in the picture will appear to be in front of or behind this focal point. Don't worry about the weird red and cyan double-images in the rest of the picture. It's supposed to look like that.

If you are happy with your picture click the Save Button and give it a name like "super_pretty_pussy_cat_laying_in_the_sun_on_the_patio.jpg" Or you might want to shorten that just a bit, say perhaps, "3D cat.jpg." It's so easy a caveman could do it! Well, a caveman with a digital camera and a computer anyway.

But what if your picture isn't just right and requires a little extra fiddling with? That's where the other buttons come in.

One of the most common problems you'll run into is Funky Color Syndrome. This usually happens when there are lots of reds and blues in your pictures and looking at them with the 3D glasses is like having a bad acid trip. If you look at them too long your eyeballs will explode. Well, maybe they won't explode, but you'll probably get a headache.

The most radical solution to Funky Color Syndrome is to just get rid of the colors completely. That way you don't have to worry about reds and blues wavering and vibrating in front of your eyes. Just click the Grayscale Button and the problem is solved. Don't fret. Some of the most dynamic 3D pictures are in black & white.

Does this utility belt make me look fat?

The button sitting right next to the Grayscale Button just minding its own business is the Full Color button. This is the perfect option if there aren't a lot of bright reds and blues to confuse your senses. And since it is a fully functional button you can feel free to click the other color buttons to your heart's content to see which you like best with no danger of losing the colors of your original images.

But what if  there are some reds and blues that are too bright but you don't want to get rid of the color completely, just tone it down a bit. Well, this is your lucky day, kid. Have I got a button for you!

This is the Half Color Button. It will tone down the reds and the blues to make them easier on the eyes without losing them completely.

The Optimized Color Button makes sure your image is web color-friendly, because why make a 3D picture if you aren't going to plaster it all over the Internet, right?

 The last color button is the Amber/Blue Blending Button. It is for creating a different type of anaglyphic picture and requires Amber/Blue lensed 3D glasses to view. You probably won't be using this button much.

The next four buttons are all for making position adjustments to your image and are fairly self explanatory. If you are unsure what they do just fiddle with them a bit and their function will become apparent.

 The last two buttons are for settings and information about the genius who created this program. I have never had to alter the settings for the program. You should probably just stick with the defaults too.

And there you have it! You have just created your first 3D photograph and met all the requirements for graduating from The Big Cat Daddy School of 3D Photography with an associates degree in Awesome!

Your Big Cat Daddy is very proud of you

If you have a smart phone and want to create and edit 3D pictures on your phone or tablet, well, there's an app for that. In fact there are several. In an upcoming blog post we'll explore some of these. Some are quite good, others, not so much. I'll tell you which ones I like and why, and before you know it you'll be creating anaglyphic magic right from your phone. So stay tuned. Same bat time, same bat channel.



*Of course I know that "half a baby step" is subjective, but you get the idea. Don't worry, this isn't rocket science. You aren't going to mess it up.

Away Team

Check out my HeroClix Star Trek Away team in 3D. Also featuring my Diamond Select Enterprise.

Speaking of Star Trek

Check out my new set of Heroclix Away Team figures. 

 

Where No Man Has Gone Before

Trekkies the world over just celebrated Star Trek's 46th anniversary. As a life-long Trekkie myself I'd like to share a few Star Trek related images-- with a special 3D twist.

When I was a kid my best friend David had a Viewmaster with a disk of the Star Trek episode "The Omega Glory." Anybody remember that? Boy, I was envious. That was my first Star Trek 3D experience.

My Re-creation of one of the iconic Viewmaster Images

I never dreamed that I would grow up to make my own 3D Star Trek images. Here are a couple of shots of the Enterprise toy my wife gave me for Christmas last year. I think my shots are as good or better than the Viewmaster images, if I do say so myself.

I even took a few "Beauty Shots" if you will, with the Enterprise flying by an asteroid. I was pleased with how those pictures turned out.

I had this as my desktop wallpaper for a very long time.

Here's the behind the scenes shot. The Enterprise is mounted on the stand that came with it. The backdrop is made of foamcore and posterboard with holes poked in it. It is light from the back by a couple of desk lamps. The Enterprise and the asteroid are lit with finger lights from the dollar store. The styrofoam asteroid is stuck to the backdrop with magnets embedded inside it and magnets on the backside of the backlit backdrop. That's so I could easily move it around. Then to take the shot I had a regular Kodak digital camera on a tripod. I took the left image, slid the tripod to the right an inch or two and took the right image. I combined them in a free program called Wooly Anaglyph Maker. I've written a complete tutorial on how to do this if you'd like to try it yourself.

My other Trek images so far are just a picture or two of some of my toys--

Here's my mint-condition original series Pez collection hobnobbing with a few superheroes.

This is toy tricorder, phaser and communicator set I picked up on the cheap at the failed Fedcon USA. (That was just about the only good thing that came out of that weekend.) The two tribbles are homemade by my mom when I was a kid. There used to be more, but a couple found good homes and a few were lost over the years. These are the only two I have left. I'd run back in a burning house to get them.

Well, that's pretty much it... So far! Thanks for beaming aboard and sharing my passion for both Star Trek and 3D photography.

I'll leave you with one last silly image-- my Matt Decker impression, or rather what might happen if I were left in charge and tried to rendezvous with another starship. DOH!

Batman and Thor Heroclix in 3D!

This is a slideshow of just a few of my Heroclix characters in 3D. I thought the 3D turned out rather well. They were processed in Wooly Anaglyph Maker (you can find a link to this free program in my tutorial post.)
You may prefer to look at them individual rather than as a slideshow. Just click the "view all images" bar above or go to the album. Here is a direct link to the photos.